After a rest day and evening at Erldunda (corner of Stuart and Lasseter Highways), we headed north to our next stop, Alice Springs. On recommendation we elected to stay at the Big 4, which is a sizeable and very well set up facility. Even with the Ulysses bike crew in town, which has been excellent for local business, we haven’t felt crowded anywhere.

Alice Springs is a colourful town of 28,000, set between the east and the west Macdonnell Ranges. There is a strong indigenous population, however unfortunately there is multi-generational unemployment, which is a major challenge for government and other agencies to manage.There is a surprising range of services and industry, which benefitted us, given it was time for hair cuts,  and service of the Suzuki, as we had no functioning headlights and the lock on the spare wheel  was frozen in place. We have found the locals very helpful and capable.

We have amused ourselves for four and half enjoyable days. Alice Springs is the home of the Royal Flying Doctors, which was founded in 1934 by John Flynn, a minister with the Presbyterian Church. There is a very good museum and school here in town, where we enjoyed learning about the tremendous work this organisation provides many hundreds of thousands of Australians and travellers. On recommendation we also visited the Desert Park, home of the desert wildlife. It is an excellent park on a number of acres at the bottom of the ranges. Steve particularly wanted to see the birds of prey being fed. This is a very engaging session with a range of birds, but unfortunately not the wedge tail eagle. We did though get close and personal with one in a separate one on one session with a 5 year old male and one of his keepers. I have to say they are special birds, very commanding and regal. I have included a photo of one of the falcons on the wing, and a shot of the eagle.

Falcon in flight

On Thursday, we enjoyed drive through the East Macdonnell ranges, as far as the end of the sealed road, to the Ross River Resort. Now this was not what most would call a resort! Camp maybe, but full of character and history, with a great little pub and basic meal service. We attempted the N’Dhala Gorge, a 4 wheel track, however 1km in fell foul of the recent rains. Not wanting to swim, we elected to abort and enjoy a cup of tea at the hospitable resort. A photo is included at the end of this blog.

We visited scenic Trephina Gorge on our way back. This is a valley oasis between the ranges, playing host to many different trees, plants and elusive animals. There are a number of spots like this throughout the ranges. The West Macdonnell ranges are probably more scenic than the east. Yesterday we ventured west, spending time at Simpsons Gap, Standley Chasm and Ellery Creek Bighole.

Simpsons Gap is only 25km from Alice Springs and is quite a magical spot, with varied plant and animal life, being the home of the black footed rock wallaby….no we didn’t see any!

Steve at Simpsons Gap

Standley Chasm is in aboriginal land, 50 kms into the ranges, and is a picturesque natural chasm that has been formed over thousands of years by surging floodwaters. It is a short and stunning walk into the chasm. It was rather busy, with Ulysses bikers and travellers all enjoying the beauty. Probably our favourite though was Ellery Creek, where we enjoyed a peaceful lunch sitting beside a natural water hole where the brave can swim, set between magnificent cliffs of red rock. We decided that the water was just too cool to venture in (photos below).

This morning we watched the Ulysses final parade, which was their way of saying thankyou to the townspeople for their wonderful hospitality. Seeing some thousand or so bikes pass by was quite a spectacle.

After a long bike ride (the second in a few days) we are venturing out tonight with fellow kiwi travellers for a meal ‘in town’. It might just be some time until we reach Darwin, which is were we will hopefully get to enjoy dining out again. Tomorrow we head north towards Tennant Creek, stopping at Barrow Creek on the way.

Ellery Creek water hole

Standley Chasm

N’Dhala track with recent addition of swimming pool