On Friday we had a fabulous day at Nitmiluk National Park. Our first activity was the ‘Baruwei Loop Walk’ which is a 3.7km walk that takes in a key lookout down to the Katherine River. On our journey, very close to the river we encountered many thousands of flying foxes in the trees, and very much out of tune and enjoying their late morning concerto. We were amazed, as there are said to be some 50,000 of them here. The walk was very enjoyable, however, it was 35 degrees and with the heat off the rocks, it was probably closer to 40 degrees.

Looking down on the gorge from the lookout

On our return to the National Park office and café, we had thought to jump in the river for a swim. However hearing it was ‘a bit cool still’, we elected instead to enjoy a few hours in the park pool, cooling off before freshening up for our afternoon/evening cruise.

We didn’t know quite what to expect and probably hadn’t set our expectations too high. What a fantastic and well run cruise this was. There are 13 gorges over 12kms in the national park, each running into the next, separated by rocks and drops that can make it particularly difficult to move from one to the next. Our cruise was to the first two gorges, really highlighting the stunning beauty of the towering sandstone cliffs, which change to various shades of orange as the sun sets.

Sunset shadows and brilliant colours in the gorge

To get from the first to the second gorge there is a 300m walk and a new boat awaiting the cast of some 60 odd guests. What we didn’t know when we first came to the park was that there is a season when kayaking and swimming are declared safe. This occurred on Saturday. The rangers track and trap salt water crocs that come up the river during the wet season. This part of the river has been declared safe. This means there are only fresh water crocs in the 13 gorges, so theoretically swimming is on the cards. Given that we saw a 2.5m freshwater croc basking in the sun, and another in the water, much to my disappointment a decision was made that kayaking was out for Sunday.

The cruise, food and company were sensational, and you can only say that mother nature has made a wonderful job of forming Nitmiluk Gorge. Oh, and watching 50,000 flying foxes dominate the dusk skyline was quite something.

Flying foxes dominate the skyline….those are the little specs!

Saturday was a combination of relaxation (well I did ride my bike 20kms until the heat got the better of me), shopping and chores. Because there was no pool in this camp we enjoyed an hour or two at the natural springs in Katherine. Of course we weren’t the only ones to think of this on a hot sunny afternoon!

We made a decision to move parks to Nitmiluk camp ground, in the national park so that we could enjoy the walks and the swimming pool, which has become quite a sanctuary in this heat. So on Sunday off we (and friends Dearne and Rod in their motorhome) headed. Brian hasn’t joined us here due to mechanical problems, so he has remained in Katherine, awaiting his new spare parts.

Much time has been spent in the pool, which is a very pleasant temperature. And other than the occasional group of youngsters having fun, very quiet. Yesterday I made the decision that not enough exercise was happening here, so at first light this morning, armed with water bottles and backpack, I embarked on a 10km hike, trekking the Loop walk again and then another walk of 6km or so, to a different lookout  and to a beautiful waterfall that wasn’t quite cascading into a large waterhole (minus crocs) ideal for swimming. The water was very refreshing, as was the camp pool on my return. Steve enjoyed time in town to catch-up with Brian and to have a haircut.

Our time at this beautiful spot comes to an end tomorrow morning, when we move north 50kms to Edith Falls, another national park area with swimming holes and excellent walks.