Cooinda is just 54kms down the Kakadu highway (and 59kms from Jabiru), so it was a quick trip from Jabiru to the Gagudju or Cooinda Lodge. Cooinda is the hub for many tours throughout the Kakadu National Park, especially the Yellow Water Cruise, a tourism award winning journey through Kakadu’s wetlands. It was also a great base for our visit to Maguk. The Lodge has an excellent camp ground, swimming pools and restaurants, and plays host to all types of traveller.

Once we had set ourselves up we embarked on our Maguk visit. Maguk is some 50kms south of Cooinda, and then 10kms on a lovely corrugated road (or maybe I should say dirt track) suitable only for 4 wheel drive. And you have to go slow or risk being beaten around somewhat. Following a 1km walk through monsoonal forest we came face to face with a beautiful and natural plunge pool at the bottom of an all year round waterfall. Steep gorge walls make this particularly picturesque. And at the top of the waterfall is the added delight of smaller crystal clear pools. Most importantly, there were very few people here which was a real bonus.

Enjoying a peaceful swim at beautiful Maguk

Like all ‘wet areas’ in Kakadu, there are the inevitable ‘beware of crocodiles’ signs. We certainly enjoyed several peaceful swims before making our way back to Cooinda.

The next day we had an early start for the Yellow Waters Breakfast Cruise.  We had heard very good reports about this particular cruise and we were not disappointed. Up at 5.30am, after a cuppa and a very light breakfast (we knew that breakfast wasn’t until 9am), we drove the short distance to the boat…..and along with close to 100 others, enjoyed a stunning 2 hours. The cruise starts in the Yellow Water Billabong, Kakdu’s most famous wetland, which is at the end of the Jim Jim Creek, a tributary of the South Alligator River, and then journeys out into the river itself. We enjoyed a sensational dawn, watching prolific birdlife set against the backdrop of the red sunrise,

Dawn at Yellow Water Billabong

and then as the cruise progressed, saw many of Kakadu’s 60 wetland bird species (Kakadu is home to more than 280 species of bird, which is over 1/3 of Australia’s bird species) including brolgas, pairs of jabiru, whistling ducks, sea eagles, magpie geese, herons, ibis, darters, wrens, pygmy geese, jacanas (lotus bird), bitterns, king fishers we have never seen before, various types of cormorants and lots of others!

South Alligator Wetlands

And of course there were turtles and big fat salt water crocs just eyeing us up as we cruised on by. I can’t really describe how stunning the wetlands area is with its vibrant life.

a 4m+ croc sunning itself less than 3m from the boat

The colours, the sheer numbers of birds, and the absolute tranquillity. And all this against a backdrop of a highly knowledgeable and engaging guide who shared facts and stories about the local aborigines throughout the tour. This one is a must to anyone going to Kakadu. We didn’t want it to end! But end it did, and following a hasty breakfast we packed up and headed south, back down to Katherine.

We decided to have a few days of relaxation, and so have been here for 3 days, parked in the unpowered acreage of the Big4 at Katherine. They have a very large area where guests can choose where they want to park. So, we have found a spot where our closest neighbour is some 200m away. Other than bike riding, swimming, walking, chores and stocking up on essentials, this has been a very relaxing time. And of course we celebrated Steve’s birthday whilst we were here, and enjoyed a night out at the local onsite restaurant.

Tomorrow we start our journey west, with our next major stop at Lake Argyle and Kununurra, where we expect to enjoy the many activities and sights this region offers.