As we drove out of the camp ground this morning and came toward the town of Exmouth it struck me just what an area of great contrasts this is. On a number of evenings we drove up to the Light House to enjoy a glass of wine and watch the sun set over the sea, whilst looking out on whales frolicking along the outside of the reef. The beautiful colours of the reef sparkle in the evening sunlight. Then, right out in the distance, on the horizon are 4 oil rigs. As the sun sets the lights become obvious as do the flames. Further to the north west and what can’t be seen is Barrow Island, a significant LNG plant operated by Chevron, processing 15 million tonnes pa. This is known as the Gorgon Project, with FIFO workers flying in from all around Australia, including Exmouth.

At night time there are a number of very attractive red lights on the skyline to the north. We could see these from our bedroom window every evening. This is a key Defence installation, jointly operated with our big brother the USA, to track submarine operations around key parts of the globe. Its known as the HAARP facility. These are part of the naval Harold Holt Facility, which provides very low frequency radio transmissions to the US and Australian navy ships and submarines in the Western Pacific and Eastern Indian Ocean.

Then there’s the RAAF Learmonth base, a bare base, with a number of large hangars and as a bare base, no air force units are based here, other than a small caretaker team. The base also has an air weapons range attached to it.

So, yes, the township is more recent, established to support defence operations, specifically the Harold Holt facility in the late 60s. Today there is more development including a marina and canal homes, to house the FIFO workers and expected growth.

Interesting isn’t it that these major and controversial developments and projects live alongside the sensitive and beautiful Ningaloo Reef. Imagine, just one environment incident could destroy this finely tuned marine environment. It doesn’t bare thinking about! Farewell Exmouth.

Farewell Exmouth

And, welcome Coral Bay

Beautiful Coral Bay