In our last blog I mentioned that we planned to go sailing again to find the elusive dugong. Sadly, the weather precluded this, with the tour operator deciding the weather, whilst not wet, was too gloomy for spotting marine life, so that dampened our enthusiasm – and then it was a beautiful sunny afternoon and we could have gone. So it’s still the elusive dugong for Steve.

From Denham we moved back to Hamelin Station for the night to break up our trip down the coast to Kalbarri, and just as we had on our previous visit, it was very enjoyable and our hosts once again put out the welcome mat and made sure all visitors had an enjoyable stay.

The 270km trip to Kalbarri was made in overcast weather, watching rain clouds rolling down the coast.

Road house stop for coffee – Jane having fun!

This was a more interesting drive, as we passed from landscape dominated by small scrubby trees, onto larger gum trees and lovely colourful wildflowers, and then what a surprise! We drove into the WA wheat and grain belt. This was the first time we had seen agriculture in months, and it was a very pleasant change. The drive through Kalbarri National Park was also memorable given that it is wildflower season and everywhere between the bushes and scrub are yellow, pink, white, purple and orange concentrations of colour.

The weather decided to ‘go wild’ whilst we were in Kalbarri. Kalbarri is on the coast, 590kms north of Perth and at the mouth of the Murchison River. Strong wind warnings were issued, and it was gusty with waves crashing over the beach and up the cliff. Quite picturesque in its own way. But of course some of what we do when traveling is weather dependent. One of our must dos was the walks in Kalbarri National Park. The Park covers an area of 186,000 hectares, and plays host to inland river gorges with rock formations that are 400 million years old. We had planned to visit 2 gorges, the Z-bend and the Loop, however because of the conditions this wasn’t on the cards. Both of these offered spectacular scenery and 150m cliffs dropping down to the river bed. Instead we had to make do with Hawks Head and Ross Graham, both very short walks.

Looking down into the gorge at Kalbarri, beautiful colours and rock formations

The rain got us on the last stage of our walk but hey, that’s all part of the fun. The Murchison River has forged deep gorges, winding its way through the park. It is certainly very picturesque but for us doesn’t hold the same appeal as Karajini with its challenging walks and exceptional pools and falls.

Kalbarri coast is dominated by rugged fractured and decaying sandstone cliffs that plunge more than 100m into the ocean which has sculptured amazing rock formations. As a result there have been many shipwrecks along the coast. There are a number of walking/bike trails that lead to these, which are definitely worth visiting.

Looking across to Red Bluff

When the weather cleared, I enjoyed a 10km walk to ‘Red Bluff’ which is the highest elevation in the area, and a great spot for whale watching. With strong winds and rough seas it was more than a challenge to see any. However the local wildlife – blue tongue lizards – was out and about to greet me on the way.

Local wildlife – the 4th blue tongue lizard I met on the cliff walk

On Sunday, Fathers Day there was no change in the weather, but we intrepid four (Jane, Steve, Rod and Dearne) made the decision to go quad bike riding on the beach and sand dunes with Wagoe Beach Quad Bike Tours.

Wet weather jackets adorned, and off we go!

Despite the weather and getting soaked this was a real blast. It was such fun, flying along a beautiful white sandy beach with waves crashing in alongside, climbing up and down huge sand dunes and learning about the local wildlife and history of the area. We had a great time.

Flying up a sand dune in the wet

After 3 days it was time to head south again, this time to Geraldton, on the Coral Coast. Geraldton has a population of 37,000 and from having driven around the town is definitely a growing and developing country/seaside town. There is a major port here, and this is the centre for iron ore and grain export (all WAs wheat is exported), as well as livestock (sheep). There is also a significant fishing and rock lobster fleet at the port. Because Geraldton was gazeted as a town in 1850 there are a number of well restored historic buildings nestled between more modern architecture. The waterfront has been recently developed and hosts a marina, low rise and well architectured offices and residences. The town has a very pleasant feel to it. One of the key attractions for us was to visit the Abrolhos Islands, an archipelago of 122 coral islands and crystal blue waters with an abundance of sea life just 70kms off the coast. But this darned weather has hung over us for a week now (we don’t like it!) and the conditions simply haven’t been right for flying or snorkelling. Its been more like wave jumping or big wave surfing conditions. Today the sun is out between the clouds, its a little warmer (22 degrees) and the wind has finally settled down.

We did enjoy visiting the HMAS Sydney II Memorial on Mount Scott, a tribute to the 645 lives that were lost in 1941.

Steve with the Waiting Woman and looking back over to the Dome of Souls

What a sobering place of artistic beauty. The Memorial comprises the Dome of Souls – 645 seagulls representing the lives lost; the Eternal Flame – within the dome; the Podium – a ships propeller sitting within the nautical compass giving the directional bearings of the compass; the Pool of Remembrance – evocative of a war grave with a ship; the Stele – representing the prow of HMAS Sydney II; the Waiting Woman – representing anxious mothers and relatives looking for the return of their sons; and the Wall of Remembrance – engraved with the names of the 645 men who lost their lives.

Tomorrow we again head south, to Jurien Bay. We really are getting so close to Perth now, the final stop for us on this trip.